Description
Blue Hippo Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus)
Also Known As: Paracanthurus hepatus, Hippo Tang, Blue Tang, Dory
- Temperament: Semi Aggressive
- Care Level: Moderate
- Reef Safe: Yes
- Max size: 12″ or 30 cm
Information from Liveaquaria.com
Overview
Scientific Name: Paracanthurus hepatus
Common Names: Blue Tang, Palette Surgeonfish, Regal Blue Tang, Hippo Tang
Origin: Indo-Pacific (East Africa, Maldives, Indonesia, Philippines, Australia, Micronesia)
Adult Size: Up to 30 cm; typically 20-25 cm in captivity
Lifespan: 8-12 years in aquariums; up to 20-30 years in the wild
Care Level: Moderate to advanced
Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive; may be territorial with similar species
Reef Safe: Yes, but may nip at corals if underfed
Availability: Common in the aquarium trade; mostly wild-caught, with rare aquacultured specimens
The Blue Tang is renowned for its electric blue body, black palette-shaped marking, and bright yellow tail. As the only member of the Paracanthurus genus in the Acanthuridae family, it has sharp caudal spines (“scalpels”) for defense, requiring careful handling. Its plankton and algae-eating habits make it a valuable addition to reef tanks, but its sensitivity to poor water quality and dietary needs demand a spacious aquarium and diligent care.
Care Requirements
Blue Tangs thrive in environments mimicking their natural reef habitats, with strong water flow, stable parameters, and grazing opportunities. They are highly susceptible to marine ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) and head/lateral line erosion (HLLE) if stressed or underfed, making water quality and diet critical.
Parameter Recommended Range Notes
Tank Size Minimum 350 liters; 500+ liters preferred Juveniles can start in 200 liters, but upgrades are essential. Active swimmers need space.
Temperature 22-28°C Ideal 24-26°C; use heater/chiller for stability.
pH 8.1-8.4 Stable pH prevents stress; test weekly.
Salinity (SG) 1.020-1.025 Standard marine salinity; use refractometer.
Water Hardness 8-12 dKH Buffers pH; use marine salt mixes.
Ammonia/Nitrite 0 mg/L Critical; poor water quality causes disease.
Nitrate <20 mg/L Low levels via 10-20% weekly water changes.
Lighting Moderate to high Supports algae growth; 8-10 hours/day with LEDs or T5.
Filtration & Flow Strong; 20-40x tank volume/hour Protein skimmer, powerheads, live rock for filtration.
Aquascaping: Provide live rock for grazing and hiding, with open swimming areas to accommodate their active nature. Secure corals, as their swimming may dislodge structures. A jump guard prevents escapes.
Acclimation: Drip acclimate over 1-2 hours to avoid shock. Quarantine for 4-6 weeks to monitor for parasites like ich or flukes, as they are particularly sensitive.
Health Notes: Prone to ich (white spots), HLLE (erosions on head/lateral line), and bacterial infections. Use UV sterilizers and quarantine with copper-based treatments (e.g., Cupramine at 0.15-0.2 mg/L) if needed. Stress from poor acclimation or water quality is a common issue.
Maintenance
Rigorous maintenance is essential to prevent health issues and maintain vibrant coloration.
Water Changes: 10-20% weekly (35-70 liters for a 350-liter tank) using RO/DI water matched to tank parameters.
Filtration: Employ a protein skimmer, canister filter, or refugium. Add activated carbon to remove toxins.
Testing: Weekly monitoring of pH, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phosphate using reliable kits (e.g., Salifert, Hanna).
Cleaning: Siphon detritus during water changes; clean filters monthly. Monitor algae growth, as the tang grazes but requires supplemental feeding.
Handling: Use caution due to sharp caudal spines, which can cause painful cuts. Transfer using a container, not a net.
Common Issues:
Marine Ich: Treat in quarantine with copper (0.15-0.2 mg/L) or hyposalinity (1.009 SG).
HLLE: Prevent with a varied diet, low nitrates, and vitamin supplements (e.g., Selcon).
Stress: Monitor for glass surfing, hiding, or faded coloration; check water parameters and tank mates.
Source healthy specimens from reputable suppliers, as transport stress is a significant concern.
Diet
Blue Tangs are omnivorous, feeding on plankton and algae in the wild. In captivity, they require a varied diet with a focus on algae and plant matter to support health, coloration, and reduce aggression. Feed small amounts 2-3 times daily, consumed within 2-3 minutes, to mimic natural feeding behavior.
Primary Foods:
Marine algae/nori (e.g., Ocean Nutrition Seaweed Salad, Hikari Sea Veggies).
Spirulina-enriched flakes or pellets (e.g., New Life Spectrum, Formula Two).
Blanched vegetables: Zucchini, spinach, romaine lettuce, broccoli.
Supplements (20-30% of diet): Frozen mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, copepods, or high-quality omnivore flakes/pellets for protein and variety.
Feeding Tips: Attach nori to a veggie clip or rock. Provide live rock for natural grazing. Frequent small feedings reduce waste and support health. Target-feed with tools like Julian’s Thing if tank mates compete for food.
A varied diet with ample algae and plankton-like foods enhances their vibrant blue color and prevents HLLE.
Behavior
Blue Tangs are active, diurnal swimmers that graze and explore constantly. They are generally peaceful but may become semi-aggressive toward similar-shaped fish or food competitors, especially in smaller tanks. Their caudal spines are used defensively and can harm tank mates or handlers.
Activity Level: High; requires ample swimming space to thrive.
Social Dynamics: Peaceful to semi-aggressive; may chase food competitors or similar species. Best kept singly or introduced last to reduce territoriality.
Stress Indicators: Glass surfing, hiding, faded coloration, or rapid gill movement—check water parameters and tank mate compatibility immediately.
Compatibility
Blue Tangs are reef-safe, grazing algae without harming most corals or invertebrates, though hungry individuals may nip at LPS or soft corals. Their size and occasional territoriality make them best suited for larger community tanks.
Compatible Tank Mates (in 350+ liter tanks):
Robust fish: Clownfish, wrasses, angelfish, hawkfish, larger gobies, damselfish.
Invertebrates: Shrimp, snails, crabs, anemones.
Corals: SPS, most soft corals; monitor LPS with larger specimens.
Incompatible:
Other Blue Tangs or similar-shaped surgeonfish (e.g., Acanthurus species) in smaller tanks—leads to aggression.
Slow or timid fish: Seahorses, pipefish, small anthias.
Direct food competitors: Some rabbitfish or triggerfish.
Stocking Tips: One Blue Tang per 350 liters. Introduce simultaneously in large tanks to minimize territoriality.
Provide hiding spots to reduce stress.
Reproduction
Breeding Blue Tangs in home aquariums is extremely challenging and not feasible for most hobbyists. In the wild, they are broadcast spawners, releasing eggs and sperm in groups or pairs near the surface, with pelagic larvae drifting before settling on reefs.
Captive Breeding: Rare; some success in large-scale facilities (e.g., Rising Tide Conservation), but not viable in home setups due to aggression in pairs and fragile larvae requiring live feeds (phytoplankton, rotifers).
Requires tanks of 1500+ liters and specialized care.
Sexing: Difficult; males may be slightly larger with more pronounced spines; females have larger cloacas.
Hobbyist Notes: Focus on sourcing sustainable wild-caught or aquacultured specimens to support conservation efforts.
Summary
The Blue Tang is a vibrant and active addition to large reef aquariums, controlling algae while showcasing its stunning blue coloration. Its care demands a spacious tank, pristine water quality, and a varied diet to maintain health and manage occasional aggression. Intermediate to advanced aquarists with experience in water management and fish behavior will find it rewarding. Source ethically to support sustainable practices and protect wild populations.
Picture for illustrative purposes only. Either come in store to view available stock or request pictures to be sent to you.
Please Note: Due to variations within species resulting from age, region, sex, etc., the actual livestock may not look identical to the image. Approximate size range may also vary between individual specimens.
